Memphis Blues

Bette Davis must have been in Memphis when she uttered those famous words:  “What a dump.”  There is no way to sugar coat the neglect and decay that surprised me last month during my first visit to Memphis to see Graceland, Elvis Presley’s estate.  It was on my Bucket List.  There is ONE street in Memphis that is lit up with blues and bars.  That’s it.  Today, bordering the Graceland estate, there are rotting appliance and lotto storefronts with faded “out of business” signs within view of Elvis’ dining room window.  Most of the businesses sport wood where glass used to be.  It reminded me of Clio & Pierson Roads in the Flint, Michigan ghetto.  Yes, “In the Ghetto.”

The business district with its public transportation and it’s unemployed, stumbling with their 40′s clutched in crinkled paper, has assaulted what was once the King of Pop’s safe harbor:   his escape, his peaceful home.

BEFORE, Graceland had evoked images to me of an American pastoral with 100 year old sycamore trees, flower gardens, and room to run.  The AFTER leaves me scratching my head.  Graceland’s perimeter stone wall is her only defense against a city that long ago tried to capitalize on her fame.

People still shuffle in from around the world to visit Graceland.  The set up for visitor parking, restrooms, and ticket sales has been mismanaged into a hodgepodge of side show attractions and awkwardness.  There is a collection of misfit souvenir shops stuccoed together to create a discordant strip mall.  Within that mall is a mix of cliche southern BBQ  restaurants.

The Mansion is purposefully dated and preserved just the way Elvis left it in 1977.  It sits on 36 acres with a shooting range, horse corrals and barns, and a pool.  Sadly, the acreage is surrounded by cascades of drooping telephone wires and a forgotten subdivision with 1950′s atomic ranch homes, most in disrepair.  Directly across the five lane busy street from Graceland’s noisy  front gate is Elvis’ auto museum and Elvis’ two jets:  The Lisa Marie and HoundDog 2.  The jets have not weathered well for the past 40 years in the intense, southern sun.   Within walking distance is the Heartbreak Hotel.  It all screams Wisconsin Dells or Gatlinburg, TN main street carnival–after a heartbreak.

One of the things that Priscilla and Lisa Marie excelled at was displaying Elvis’ private collections, gold records, and awards.  His Aloha from Hawaii concert was the first time in television history that a program was seen around the world via satellite.  Many of his recognizable jumpsuits were nicely displayed as well as his wedding tuxedo and Priscilla’s gown. 

He and his parents are buried there and I made sure I sent my thanks skyward for Elvis, his music, and for the opportunity to tour his home.  This writer has been hard on the town of Memphis, but the actual trip to Graceland has redeeming qualities.  It is a small “big home” by today’s standards, but it is beautiful.

My favorite Elvis song you ask?  Hands down, Such a Night.